Back in the USA

The Tre Nonne are back in the USA.  We had to leave our accommodations before the royals arrived, but really, who needs royals when you've encountered a real saint?

Tre Nonne with St. Patrick (second encounter)

And to all our blog followers, don't forget to enjoy the heck out of life! Or, as the Irish say, slainte!

Oh, what a relief it is!

All three Nonne breathed a collective sigh of relief when the rental car was safely delivered to the agency. Did you hear it over the cheers of the French soccer fans?

Our journey today began in Westport with stops in:

Croagh Patrick

Doolough Valley, site of a famine tragedy, also our first encounter with midges.

Killary Fjord, Ireland's only fjord 

Kylemore Abbey,  once a private home, now home to an order of Benedictine nuns who fled Ireland when Catholics were persecuted and who, centuries later, returned as WWI refugees.

Beach south of Clifden, very tempting on this fine day 

Roundstone where we had lunch

We wished we'd  had more time to hike and explore, but our day of nibbling on the sights was pretty full.  Here's one iconic photo of the area:

Peat cut and stacked

Then we were back to Galway in time to return the rental car and catch the train to Dublin. There was noticeable celebration in the streets after the World Cup semifinal match that France won. The Nonne had their own celebration by revisiting ONeills. Live Irish music was playing. Nonna Paola had a Guinness!      We're told the Duke and Duchess of Sussex (Harry and Meghan) will be at the Book of Kells tomorrow. That's just a block away. Hmm, let's see how that effects transportation and the ETHOOL trip.

The Ubiquitous Beer Keg

A typical Irish street scene would not be complete without a few kegs lined up by the pub:

These being available resources, you never know where you might find them next:

Mayo's Wild Atlantic Way

Our favourite things:
-sheep dodging
-tractor dodging
-cat dodging
-cyclist dodging
-pedestrian dodging
-dog dodging
-bog truck dodging
-parked car dodging

No wonder it's called the Wild Atlantic Way. But Team Nonne was up for the challenge. We ran the gauntlet unscathed and were rewarded with stunning panoramic views. To wit:

Downpatrick Head

Sheep at Downpatrick Head

Lackan Strand

View from Ceide Fields

We survived dangerous blowholes and eroding cliffs:

Perhaps St. Patrick was looking out for us:

The gustatory phase of the trip continued:

Goat Cheese Tart

Fish Cake

Chicken Tortilla Wrap with Vegetable Soup

And here is Nonna Paola's favorite photo of the day:

And since the 3 Nonne are descended from Irish stock from Killala in County Mayo, here are photos of the town:

Round Tower

View of town from the port

This one's for Laura: Irish Coast Guard station

A good, full day despite Commander Fitbit grousing that we'd only logged 6 miles.

County Mayo: Cong, Knock, Westport

So far we've seen a few unusual-to-us animals. The list includes one pine marten (living) and one badger (dead). We've seen quite a few fine specimen of the local salmon and even tasted some:

Smoked salmon in Cong.

After Mass, the 3 Nonne braved the narrow,  obstacle-laden streets to continue ETHOOLing.  We arrived in Cong, home to Ashford Castle, shortly before lunch, but decided to eschew the castle in favor of visiting the charming historic town of Cong and the abbey there.

Cong Abbey, main wall.

Cong Abbey, cloister.

Cong Abbey, monks fishing house. 

Trivia question: Why would a life-size statue of John Wayne be in Cong?? (Answer at end of blog.)

Howdy, Partner.

After Cong, we headed up to the Our Lady of Knock Shrine where we'd heard the final day of the 40 days for life rosary--in response to Ireland's recent vote on abortion--was culminating in a special Mass.

Our Lady of Knock Shrine.

Then we were off to Westport where music was in the air and even the sheep couldn't help swaying to the beat:

For those interested in the Fitbit update, we clocked in just over 5 miles today,  about 3 miles shy of our daily average.

Trivia answer: The movie The Quiet Man was filmed here.

Fitbit In Command

As we lie in bed exhausted but happy, we wonder whether Nonna Laura's fitbit isn't getting a little too big for its britches.  "Only 200 more steps and you'll have walked 8 miles," indeed.

Let's begin at the beginning. The day started innocently enough, breakfast and tending farm animals.

Nonna Laura with full Irish breakfast. Eggs and pork were fresh off the farm.

Nonna Mary cuddles a new friend.

Then we were off to the Burren (unique rocky terrain). We identified a loop trail that seemed our speed and found the trailhead easily enough. The trail was well marked and beautiful. It was definitely rocky. Here's a view from our lunch spot.

Four hours later, under the tyrant Fitbit's unrelenting demands, we limped,  we crawled, we hobbled to the end of the trail. In what appeared to be a mirage, a Dutch expatriate farmer invited us up to his farm for tea.  There we indulged in home baked apple pie with cream and a cup of tea. All too soon Fitbit's maniacal laughter could be heard: "Only one more mile to the car!" 

And on a decidedly upbeat note here's how the day ended:

Drive from Galway to Tulla

Up early to get to the rental car agency. At day's end, we can tell you the insurance option was worth every euro.  Right hand drive cars, driving on the wrong side of the road, navigating the NARROW roads, particularly when cars park lackidaisically or bicyclists/joggers/dog walkers and so forth further constrict the already feable artery, challenge even the Mario Andretti inspired nonnes. You never know what you'll run into. We're happy to report no bodily injuries and a fully functional, albeit customized, car...no, make that two customized rental cars.*

The Nonna's upgrade

Following the advice of a young man employed by Trip Advisor whom we met in Galway, we found the secret (and cheaper) southern access to the Cliffs of Moher Trail Walk. The views were spectacular, as you can see for yourself:

After a picnic on the Cliffs and having spent sufficient time in Ireland's heat wave to get sun burnt, we proceeded to the big adventure of the day (see first paragraph). But no worries because this is an ETHOOL trip.

Our bed and breakfast is charming. After a spot of tea, we checked out some of the residents:

Then it was suppertime in town:

Quin Abbey ruins (done before the nonnas arrived)

The Abbey Taproom

*Disclaimer: Nonna Mary takes no credit for the design improvements as she was too busy white knuckling it in the back seat.

Walking Tour of Galway, Claddaugh and Salthill

View of Galway from along the Promenade.

After a night on the town--we were touristy and went to a lively Irish music/dance show--we got a late start, but still managed to walk 6 or 7 miles per Nonna Laura's fitbit.  Our circuit included the sights below:

Canal with rowers and kayakers.

Salmon fresh from River Corrib at the Salmon Weir.

Where the anglers hang out.

This one's for Sam: the local digitalmedia/film school. The Galway Film Festival starts the day we leave Ireland.

Word for the day: piscatory.  This old piscatory school building was for sale.

Kate's Cottage in Claddaugh, the only remaining thatched roof cottage in this former fishing village.

The Famine Walk ends here. The Mutton Island lighthouse (cropped out, but just off to the left) was the last bit of Ireland those fleeing the famine would see. Over 100 ships left this port with victims.

A friendly bird.

Desserts shared at lunch (and hence the need for our 5+ mile walk).